Wednesday, September 23, 2015

New post on my new blog: 30s evening dress

Thanks for visiting my new blog and subscribing to the feed. It is so reassuring to see how many of you remained loyal to Frabjous Couture and continue reading my posts despite patchy posting :)

My newest post there is about a beautiful evening dress from 30s, which I found in the archives of the Nicosia's Leventis Museum where I volunteer. I hope you will like it as much as I do.

As a little sneak peak a detail of the front:

Monday, September 21, 2015

See you on my new blog!

Do you sometimes get a feeling that things that surround you get boring and you feel the urge to rearrange everything, have a fresh start. This is how I feel now.

My blog has evolved in the past years and I feel that through this (though positive) development it is an utter shambles. I learned so much and kept adding categories, while at the same time didn't manage to reflect the presence on other social media platforms where I am quite active as well. The same concerns the title of the blog and the overall design.

That's why I decided to start from the scratch. I now have a new blog, new design, new address and a new everything. I want it to become a cozy place where you can easily find posts, tutorials, reviews, my favorite CoutureGRAM series and more - I hope this is what it will become :)

The name of my new blog is Couture Squared, as in math (me being math aficionado) or a square standing for a place to exchange ideas and knowledge.

The new blog has been soft-launched yesterday, that is there is still some work on the buttons, links and so on. You can however, already follow it on Bloglovin and update your blog feed.

I will be migrating a lot of content (not all) in the next few months. You can bookmark the old blog to keep it as a reference as I am not planning to delete in the near future. If I will then, I will give you enough time to save any content you want to have access to.

Meanwhile I already posted there the first new post on the new Winter Coat Sew-Along hosted by the German Me-Made-Mittwoch community. Please visit my new home and comment!

Thanks to everyone for your loyalty and support,
Lots of hugs from Cyprus

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Guipure dress: step-by-step plan

Today, I finished a short shift at the Leventis Museum, researching the garments they have in their collection. I managed to examine four dresses - all custom-made - and what wonderful dressmaking it was. I'd really rather write about it now, but I got to finish my guipure dress by Friday. 

I am sharing here a step-by-step work plan - it helps me focus and gives me a rough time estimate. Maybe it will also convince you to never make a strapless garment with a corselet foundation. After all, the preceding work took me about thirty hours. I am not counting the first failed foundation (failed because of the wrong fabric choice). By accident, I bought cotton with cross grain stretch. I tried to rescue the corselet by cutting one layer on straight grain, and another on crossgrain, but it didn't work very well. At the end, I decided that having paid a little fortune for the guipure lace, I should make an effort and sew a new corselet... The plan!


I will start by finishing the corselet: the only thing missing is a waist stay, which will be attached by hand. 

This type of inner foundation is necessary for this dress since it doesn't have a waistline seam to support boning. The corselet is tighter and more fitted that the dress itself, allowing it to hang freely. 

The corselet is sewn using two layers of woven cotton. The boning channels are stitched through both layers. Cotton edges at the bottom are hand overcast, and the hem lace provides neat and less bulky finish. 


The outer layer is practically finished: the shell was fitted, seams stitched, guipure was hand-basted to the two layers of charmeuse and muslin. Now I only need to close the gaps along the centre back seam by carefully appliqué of the quipure lace.


As next I need to cut and sew the lining, which I will cut using the original fitted toile pieces. 


Once all the layers are done, they need to be connected. Lining and the corselet and basted together at the top edge and then sewn to the outer shell. The last step is best done with a zipper foot to avoid hitting the boning.  Seam allowances are trimmed, graded and clipped. 

The top edge is understitched by hand 1/2" from the edge. 

The lining is fell-stitched to the zipper tape.


Finally, the lining needs to be stitched to the dress hem and the hem slit needs to be tacked so it doesn't accidentally rip apart.

Writing the plan, while helpful, gives me wrong feeling of accomplishment now. I should go start the real sewing now. Thanks for keeping up with it )

Do you use brief step-by step plans for your sewing projects?


Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...