Wednesday, October 29, 2014

And the winner of the Mollie Makes Embroidery book is...


... Kristin Jones!

She said:  "I keep trying to take up embroidery, but without a proper teacher, or even a dedicated learning resource, I always set it aside. This book looks perfect for me, and I absolutely adore the project you've highlighted. It's a bit hard to choose my favorite, but I think it might just be the cloud shaped pillow. This book looks incredible!"


Kristin, please send your US address to mvk(dot)fashion(at)gmail(dot)com

Thanks to everyone for participating! If you missed the review of the book, you can read it here.


Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Crossover Pleat Skirt Draft Along: Drafting the Master Pattern

Finally I got it all in one place. In this post I will explain how I draft the master pattern, which we will can also use as a pattern for the skirt lining and, optionally, a petticoat.

Using the formula from the previous post I calculated that the radius for the ‘waistline’ circle will be 30.1 cm. The length of my skirt is 60 cm.

I am taking a sheet of pattern paper that is wide enough to accommodate the ‘wasitline circle’ and the length, which is 92.1 cm. I am also adding 5 cm margin on each side, which gives me the width of appr. 102 cm. 

The length of the pattern paper piece is 180 cm, or almost twice the width.


DRAFTING THE MASTER PATTERN

Below is the illustration of the finished draft. I lettered different steps so you can follow along.



1. Right Side seam

From the bottom left corner of your paper, along the left edge, draw a line equal the skirt length + calculated radius - 92.1 cm in my case. Mark the top point as point A – it will be the center of your circle. Measure down the calculated radius, mark as point B. Mark the end of the line as point C
BC = side length of your skirt


2. Waistline arc

With the compass on A, set to the calculated radius, draw an arc from B to the right. The arc length should be equal your waistline measurement without ease.  Mark the end of the arc as point D.


3. Right side seam

Draw a line from point A through point D, adding your side length measurement to end the line at point EDE = BC = side length of your skirt. Mark the lines BC and DE as side seams.


4. Hemline arc

With the compass on A, draw a larger arc to connect point C with point E. CE is the skirt hemline.


5. Left side seam

Divide the  waistline arc BD by half, mark the half point as point F.

Draw a line from point A trough point F to the larger arc, marking the point where the line crosses the hemline arc as point G. Arc segment CG must be equal arc segment GE.

Mark line FG as side seam.


6. Center front and center back

Divide both arc segments BF and FD in half, marking center points H and I. Do the same on the larger arc segments CG and GE, marking points J and K. 

Connect point H with point J, and point I with point K, marking the lines HJ and IK as center front, and center back respectively.


7. Skirt length adjustment at center front and center back

From the points J and K on the hemline mark up the front and the back length of the skirt. Adjust the waistline arc to go through this new points - orange line on the illustration.


The 3/8 skirt draft is finished. Now, let's discuss the grainline placement.

SEAMS & GRAINLINES

I went for four pattern pieces and added seams at center front and center back.  Here is why:

If you decide to make your center front and center back on grain you will end up with least fullness in those areas, with most flare at the sides. This creates a wider overall silhouette. If that’s what you want, eliminate center front and center back seams, using them only as a lengthwise grain guide.

If you, however, center the grainlines on each of four pattern pieces (blue lines on the illustration), the fullness will be equally distributed all over – my preferred option as it is more 'slenderizing'.

Of course, here you will end up with all seams off grain, which will require more effort when sewing the skirt – but it’s well worth the effort. (I’d recommend careful handling of cut pieces, preferably on a flat surface, and basting the seams before machining them)

The Part 1 is completed – we drafted our master pattern. I hope this makes sense ) In the next part I will explain how to add pleats to the back. While I am planning to upload all the posts week you can draft at your own pace. I'll be happy to discuss or answer questions in a dedicated thread in a Couture Collective forum.

As usual, I'd be happy for any comments pointing at possible typos or unclear instructions. I am learning with you)

P.S. I got a few questions about the fullness of the skirt. The skirt on the Vogue Patterns envelope looks fuller, so in case you doubt that the skirt is full enough, I'd suggest making a muslin at this stage. If you do, stay stitch the waist so it doesn't stretch out of shape. 


NYC Event: Draping Live Demo and book signing by Karolyn Kiisel

How I wish I was in NYC next week! On Tuesday, November 4th, Laurence King Publishing is hosting a draping event at FIT.

Karolyn Kiisel, the author of a now sought-after solid volume on draping will be doing a live demo draping of the iconic bateau neck dress that Audrey Hepburn wore in Breakfast at Tiffany's. 

The dress is featured in her book Draping: The Complete Course, and is a perfect introduction for anyone who wants to learn the principles of draping and recreate this timeless style for their personal wardrobe.

The demo will be followed by a Q&A and book signing. If you happen to be in NYC, don't miss this event. As for me, I can only hope to read more about it in your blogs - do share please!





Friday, October 24, 2014

Crossover Pleat Circle Skirt Draft Along 3: Math & Measurements


DREADED MATH

Circle skirts have varying fullness depending on whether we use the full circle for drafting, or only a part (segment) of it.

Most common variations are a full circle skirt, a three-quarter skirt, a half-circle skirt and a quarter-circle skirt, with the last one having the least fullness.


The waistline is defined by the inner circle, and the hem line by the larger outer circle. The distance from the circle center to the circle's edge, or radius, is calculated using a simple mathematic formula
r = C / 2π
r = radius 
C = circle circumference (in our draft-along - the waist circumference) 
π = 3,14 (which, by definition, is a constant number that represents the ratio of the circle circumference to its diameter)

The last formula is used to draw a full circle skirt. But what if we want to draft only a 1/2 circle skirt?
r = C / π  (which is derived from r = 2C / 2π)

A 1/4 circle:
r = 2C / π (from r = 4C / 2π)
As you can see that we need larger radius for less flare.


But what do we do about 3/4 circle?
r = 2C / 3π (from r  = 4C / (3 x 2π)

What we got here is a fraction that represent the part of the circle, which in our formula is turned around.  For quarter circle, for example, we could also write  1/4 r = C / 2 π, which is the same as r = 4C / 2π. Understanding this principle helps you draft a skirt with any amount of flare you want.

Now, our skirt is 3/8 circle

Note that the radii and, accordingly, the circles here will be much larger than the ones for the circle skirt, even though they appear to be are the same size as on the previous illustration
r = 8C / (3 x 2π), or r = 4C / 3π

I apologize for the nerdy language here. If you are fed up with the math this is the only formula we will use for our 3/8 circle skirt:
r = 4C / 3π 


MEASUREMENTS:

For the master pattern, which can be then used for lining or petticoat as is, we will need the following measurements (I am using mine as an example):
W (waist circumference without ease) = 71 cm 
H (hip circumference) = 105 cm 
Lf (length front) = 58 cm 
Lb (length back) = 59 cm 
Ls (length side) = 60 cm
I am using the waist circumference without the ease (2cm as a rule for other skirt styles) here. The reason is that when handling the fabric we will inevitably end up with slightly wider waistline because most of it is on the bias. Most formulas I have seen in pattern drafting books accommodate for this stretching in some way. In addition, I usually stay the waistline before cutting off the fabric wedges next to the waistline.

CALCULATIONS

We need to calculate the radius for our smaller 'waistline' circle.
r = (4 x 71) / (3 x 3.14) = 284 / 9.42 = 30.1
Please use decimal numbers for accuracy and speed! I am rounding down the final result, keeping only tenths

In the next post, I will show how I draft the 3/8 master pattern, as well as explain the grainline options. Leave a comment with any questions here, or, preferably, in a dedicated thread on the Couture Collective forum. Please, also let me know if you noticed any typos  - I am lacking sleep lately 

P.S. Thanks to Nancy K for a great tip on where to get a cheaper tracing paper: http://www.nationwidedrafting.com/store/sketchandartpaper.html. This is a less durable light-weigh sketch paper. She buys 24" wide x 50 yards

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Crossover Pleat Skirt Draft-Along 2: Get your tools ready

I am so excited that we got quite a group for this Draft-Along, and it was great to see my New Yorker and US sewing friends among participants. Being so far away now, I really miss meeting up and taking sewing or drafting classes together. The draft-along feels like an improvised reunion in a way...

As I was reading your comments and questions, I realized that I  need to add some introduction (learning by doing).  So, I am breaking up the posts starting here with the tools you will need for this draft-along. The schedule won't change significantly, I am only adding two more posts to the planned ones this week and the first drafting post will follow later today.

The following list contains some personal preferences of mine. Some of them are pricier, but are worth investing in in a long run. I must add, however, that you can, of course, follow the draft-along with simplest tools available in every household.


DRAFTING PAPER

Use sturdier paper for your first draft. Alphanumeric type is the most convenient for drafting because it makes easy to draw parallel or squared lines. However, if you are equipped with good rulers you can also use any other paper that is wide enough (so you don’t have to paste too many sheets together). Here in Cyprus, I could not find drafting quality paper for a while, so I even used paper rolls from the IKEA kids department. 

We will be drafting all, lining, petticoat, back and front on one master pattern, and will colour code individual pattern pieces to make it easy for tracing.  

Individual pattern pieces will be transferred onto a tracing paper, which we will then use for cutting.  Here, I often use thinner paper I often find in packaging, or you can purchase tracing paper on a roll  from Amazon, where you can find cheaper options than in retail. 


RULERS

I use at least one longer ruler (about 60cm or more), and one shorter one. One favorite ruler of mine is Fiskars 6x24inch Acrylic Quilting Ruler.  It’s perfect for drawing right angles, parallel lines, and it also has 30, 45 and 60 degree guides making it easy to draw precise angles. In addition, I use it a lot for graining fabric.

French curve is very convenient for drawing curved lines. You can find a set of French Curves in every school or craft supply store.


COMPASS

Drafting circle skirts you will require a compass for larger circles.

A BOSTITCH Fiberglass compass  is great for drawing inner circles up to 16” diameter, which makes it a great tool for drafting circle skirt, peplums and so on. It also quite affordable at $7.98 on Amazon.

Beam Compass by Rotape is the one that I use for drawing large circles. The best part is that it is not only long enough, but it also rolls up and is very compact.

However, with some effort, you can also get on without these tools.  Use a ruler to make points equally distant from the center point. The bigger the circle (or circle segment) the more points you will need for precision. Then connect the dots using short curved strokes, or rotate the paper for smoother results. This takes longer time of course, but it also saves money for tools.


PENCILS

You will need simple graphite pencil, preferably a softer one (2B, for example) since it is darker and offers more contrast. The master pattern (which we will use for the lining and the petticoat pattern) will be drafted in graphite pencil.

For the pleats and seamlines of the back and front pieces, we will use coloured pencils. Here, I also prefer softer pencils for contrast. Prismacolor is my favourite brand. It is pricey, but if you draft every now and then, it’s worth investing in it. Besides, you really need only a smaller pack – the one with 24 colors is probably the smallest you can get. If you go for Prismacolor I’d also recommend purchasing a sharpener from the same brand, as a regular school supplies sharpener often breaks the soft lead.

Again, Prismacolor is just my personal preference, and you can draft the skirt using any brand you got at home. 


Add paper scissors for cutting final traced pieces and this is all you will need.

The next post will cover general principles on drafting circle skirts, measurements and calculations for our master pattern. 

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