Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Couture Technique: One-thread Dart

Why use it:

One thread-dart - stitched starting from a dart point – eliminates unsightly thread tails at the point.

In addition, Roberta Carr in her great book “Couture… The Art of Fine Sewing” argues that this type of dart has a smoother, pucker-free point  and is easy to press.

When use it?

Because of the neat finishing, this technique is definitely most advisable on sheer fabrics or where the inside appearance of the garment matters.

However, Roberta Carr also recommends using it
  • On short darts (1 ½ (4cm) or less), as in the cap of a sleeve, 
  • On fabric that is difficult to press, such as gabardine.
  • On darts that extend almost to the bust point.
  • In very fitted garments.
  • In tailored garments.

How?

Step 1: 
Remove the top thread from your needle and thread it backwards with the bobbin thread using a needle threader.




Step 2:
Tie the two threads together using the smallest possible knot.

Step 3:
Re-wind the bobbin thread upward until it wraps around the top thread spool several times (appr. three-times the length of the finished dart).


Step 4:
Stitch the dart from dart point starting with a denser stitch. (appr 20 stitches per inch). The first stitch should start exactly on the fabric fold! After ½ inch (1cm) return to regular stitch length appropriate for the type of fabric.


Note:
You will have to rethread the machine for each dart, but trust me, it is really worth the trouble! 

10 comments:

  1. I was show this in a sewing class but couldn't remember how to do it. Your step-by-step is perfect. Thank you very much!

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  2. now that's something I would have never thought of! I love how you keep your blog so interesting, looks like I have lots of things to learn from you!

    Thanks again for the patterns you've sent me, I am currently hosting a giveaway, my prizes could make the return trip now - I know long long trip!:)

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  3. This is incredible! I first looked at your tutorial on Burdastyle and didn't get how it worked. Then I stepped through it here again - practically the same information - and that was just enough extra time and extra info for it to sink in and make sense. I'll certainly be giving this a go - thanks!

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  4. What a fabulous technique! It seems so obvious now that I've seen it, but never in my life would I have thought of it.

    Thanks for dropping by my blog, I've just discovered yours too! I love your tutorials they're fantastic.

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  5. Wow, i must try the technique on a summer dress,i'm planning to make i the next 3 days. i'll tell you if did work.

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  6. Hi there,

    Think I understand the instructions, will have to pop up to the sewing room and see if I can crack it!!

    Thanks for sharing.

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  7. I never thought of threading the bobbin thread backwards, that's a great tip, genius!!

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  8. I must be missing something here. First, why one thread only, why wind the bobbin onto the tread spool and is it going backward through the machine?

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  9. What a fabulous technique! It seems so obvious now that I've seen it, but never in my life would I have thought of it. maquinas de coser

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  10. This is a wonderful technique! My machine did not appreciate pulling the knotted thread through backwards, so I unthreaded the top thread, tied the bobbin thread and top thread together, pulled some length from the bobbin and re-threaded the machine from the bottom up (as opposed to the normal threading from top to bottom)- thus keeping the knot out of the tension discs. Wound up the extra bobbin thread onto the spool. Worked like a charm on liverpool knit.

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