Friday, May 6, 2011

Necktie project #2: Fabric Selection / Weave


I was in the process of writing a humongous post on fabric selection for neckties, when I decided to stop and to break it up in digestible chunks of information. 

There will be three short posts on fabrics: fabric weave, fabric types, and fabric design.

This post will explain the weave. I also suggest to visit websites of some famous tie manufactures to look at the fabrics they use for their ties (such as Drakes London), as well as to go to local stores that carry quality neckties to get a feeling for what you should be looking for.

If you look around in stores that carry ties, you will find ties in all three fundamental types of textile weave – plain, satin and twill.

Plain (or tabby, or taffeta) weave is the simplest, most frequently used weave, in which each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn (crepes, shantung organdy, taffeta, flannel)


Satin weave has long warp floats, which produce smooth, lustrous or glossy surface. The threads of the warp are caught and looped by the weft only at certain intervals

Twill weave has a diagonal rib, right or left-handed.


The weave makes difference when it comes to extensibility, drape, wrinkle resistance, pill or snag. If you want to learn how the weave affects these fabric characteristics, please, read this excellent article

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