Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Inspiration: Bustier referencing at Dior

Readers, are you following Haute Couture shows in Paris. Day 2 was no disappointment, with Dior being the most spectacular collection of the day. It's amazing, actually, as the new designer at Dior is Raf Simons who was responsible for the minimalist and linear style of Jil Sander. It seems, Simons surprised everyone, downgrading bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano to a footnote, according to the Guardian's Jess Cartner-Morley.

My intention is not to critique this collection though. I thought, rather, I would look for details that make this show memorable - there were plenty, really! Instead, I wanted to quote another fashion guru, Cathy Horyn at the New York Times, because she captured the essence of the couture:
"His clothes are often so simple that you have to look at them for a while before you see the small gesture or the magisterial way of sleeveless black crepe falls over the body. He gets the most and the best out of couture, and this is just the start.”
 So, here are some of those small gestured that captivated me. I loved how Simmons translated the strapless look (which dominated his first collection) into other pieces. Enjoy!

This seemingly simple dress has elaborate bust shaping, similar to a bustier,
and a yoke that look like as if it covers a strapless dress. Beautiful dress, and with some patternmaking skills...
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now this looks like boobs talking to the audience on both sides of the runway. Not sure whether this detail directly references something done in the past, but in any case it is very weird. Am I the only one?
Source: {Stylebistro.com}

Classic tailoring spiced up!  Love this bustier cups!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
This is a dress I would love to make! Not with glitter but maybe with lace instead. Not sure what it is, but it does create an illusion of a strapless dress. Fun!
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Again, cup shaping resonates bustier shaping.
Source: {Stylebistro.com}
Now, what do you think? Do you think Raf Simons showed a fresh angle on Dior? Does Haute Couture inspire you to add new challenges to your sewing, try new techniques, introduce new styles? 

13 comments:

  1. Beautiful show and thanks for the insights, would have not noticed the details otherwise. My favorite is the first one.

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  2. Hi Marina! I love your blog, that's why I've nominated you for the versatile blogger award. Feel free to go over my blog and read what is all about. Thank you!

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  3. Had to laugh at the talking boobs. Pretty strange element. Wonder if it's what he truly intended. I love the studded dress with the navy yoke and sleeves! (next to last photo). And I would love to see the pattern on that last blouse.
    Thanks for sharing!!

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  4. Hi Marina,
    maybe an idea for my small bust...I take this as opportunity to thank you for your blog and all the inspiration I got from it so far. Met you at the german "Hobbyschneiderforum" some time ago. As I found my love for couture within the last months I remebered your blog and at the moment I am reading all your past posts (got to October 2011)and sew my first dress with couture techniques with the help of Susans online class. However, some evenings I just spend reading your blog and follow all these links instead of sewing :-)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for your comment! It feels like reading my own words almost one and a half years ago :)

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  5. I love Raf Simon's modern Dior style. Here I particularly like how the bust emphasis remains demure and is not trashy like so often is the case, and the skirt shapes are lovely. I love the metal belt!
    The darts winking at the audience are quirky and interesting, but look kinda futuristic cool with that belt. I don't mind them, it is very hard to come up with something truly new, and this is new to me! I wish the lapel was turned evenly though...and the studded dress has some unsightly wrinkles at the V, and the underwrap is showing on #4, all little quality details that irk me - sorry I'm the world's harshest critic!

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    Replies
    1. I agree, if you look at the execution, it seems they didn't have enough time to put it together... which may be true.

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  6. I loved these styles. But half the models don't fill the bust cups - lol!

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  7. I think Raf will do an amazing job at Dior...I was blown away by this first collection.

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  8. I love the bustier reference; as a long time lover of corsetry, I believe the silhouette created by the bustier is undeniably chic. However, I am a bit disappointed to see that the second and third pieces look to be very poorly fitted to the models. Obviously yes, models are small busted, but with so much tailoring in that area, it would have been nice to see them actually FIT. The gray dress in particular looks like it's just sagging - such a shame! The first and last dress are divine, though... really nice fit and style :)

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