Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Work-in-Progress: Godet Skirt for Burdastyle

Finally I have time to dedicate to the blog again, readers! Five weeks, mostly spent on holiday - suitcases unpacked, home tidied up, sewing revisited. This month I have a busy schedule: I need to finish my Burdastyle Couture Challenge garment and the tangerine red dress I started before holidays. 10 days left, and I have to be especially careful that I stay on track.

Without going too much into my planning for the rest of the month, today’s topic is my project for the August Burdastyle Couture Challenge. A Godet Skirt (#112) from the issue 08-2012. There are couple of styles I liked in this issue, but I wanted to make something practical I can wear every day, as well as work on a technique that hasn't been covered in my BS guest posts yet. A godet was a good option.

I love godets, prominent in 30s, they looked best when women dance. Well, this skirt is not quite that style, but I like the transformation of a classic but dull tweed pencil skirt into a flirty little number.

A godet is a triangular wedge inserted into a seam or a slit to add flare to the hem without increasing bulk at the waist or the hip.

This skirt is designed with in-seam godet, which is easy to sew and is stronger than the one inserted into a slit. For a tweed godet of this volume and length, this is the perfect solution.

The skirt itself is pretty simple: a pencil skirt with one princess seam that incorporates the godet piece. However, when I look at the skirt image and the instructions, there are a few things I would like to do differently. I am not claiming that these are problems, because it may have been done intentionally, yet from the comments on my Facebook page I understand that some of you agree with me on these points.

  • Godet is puffing out at the tip (you can see it pretty well on the image). There is excess fabric that needs to be taken care of.
  • I am not sure I like the petersham belt, but this is more of personal preference than anything else. I think I’d rather go for more polished look and use self-fabric for the belt too.
  • The skirt has no lining. I am using tweed for the skirt, and there is no way I want to wear tweed close to skin. So, lining in!
  • Finally, the BurdaStyle construction uses a small patch of the lining fabric - a narrower and shorter version of the skirt godet (an ‘undergodet’) - to create a stay behind the godet, so the skirt doesn’t flare out and preserves its silhouette. I am not sure it works perfectly, but I will need to make a muslin first and see what other options I can use to stabilize the movement of the skirt underneath the godet.
Pattern pieces of the godet skirt, Model #112, Burdastyle Magazine, August 2012
Image: Burdastyle magazine. 
You can see here, that the godet (6) is relatively wide, almost as wide as the front piece of the skirt so it will require some preparation, such as slight pattern alteration for the skirt front, and tapering of the volume at the tip.  The stay (7) looks wide as well and one better option I can think of is replacing it with a narrow power net wedge... 

More to follow this week.  With two kids (incl. a 3-year old toddler) at home, I need a day or two to get the muslin, cutting and underlining done, so please bear with me. Once the school starts I will have much more time to interact).

What do you think about the skirt, readers? Would you sew it for yourself?


  1. I am so looking forward to this post as am yet to try a Burda Style pattern, and am only a beginner. Made few skirts from a book I have but not confident enough to try a Burda pattern.

  2. Thanks for your comment, Sassy. The only challenge with Burda patterns is the lack of detailed instructions. However, simple styles should not pose a problem ) The fit is, on the contrary, much better than with the Big4.

  3. I love this skirt! It falls nicely between simple and dramatic. I probably wouldn't actually make it, as I don't really have an occasion to wear fitted skirts, but if I ever worked in an office environment, I would love wearing something just a bit more interesting than the average pencil skirt!

  4. I love this skirt, and would even be willing to grade it up to a 46. I'm so glad you've pointed out the 'challenges' with it - I think I'll wait to try it until you've given it your expert adjustments.

  5. It would make a great office skirt... Yes, I would make it;)

  6. I would say the godet's puffing and volumen are both caused by the undergodet. The latter one adds volume and also defines the surface of the skirt such that the godet has to lie on top of it making it standing out. I would try to use a stay to control the flaring instead of a whole undergodet piece.

  7. What a great and classy look you made ,it was really fab..looking stunning in this outfit...have a great time....



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