|Godet from the inside. The form is held with the help of a powernet stay|
- Before you transfer your pattern and cut the fabric, add appr. 3 mm (1/8") to the length of the tweed piece at the hem (the fashion fabric) to turn it over for hemming.
- make sure you have at least one inch (2.5 cm) seam allowance, otherwise you will have very little allowance left to work with after the pieces were hang.
- finally, it is essential to use extra fine silk pins if you are working with silk to avoid pin holes in the fabric.
- to avoid permanent marks on silk, use fine silk thread and fine needles (I prefer Japanese). Test on a swatch first. If marks are visible after testing, remove the basting thread before pressing (thanks to Sewing Galaxy for reminding).
Hang both, the godet and the lining piece for a day or two so the vertical edges can stretch out. This will prevent stretching and fabric distortion after the godet was sewn. If you, like me, are working with tweed and charmeuse you will notice that charmeuse tends to stretch out more than tweed.
Retrace the pattern of the godet on the tweed piece using white chalk. Thread-trace if necessary (I do prefer to thread trace because the chalk will become almost invisible once you start pressing).
At this point I would also taper the top portion of the godet. Tapering vertical edges at the tip of the wedge is especially helpful if the godet is relatively wide, a quarter of a circle or more. The godet in this skirt was not as wide, but considering the weight of the fabric I wanted to reduce the bulk at the tip as much as possible. I measured down approximately 4” from the tip, then, took out ¼” on both sides of the wedge creating a slight inward curve on both vertical edges, gradually blending it with the original seamline on both sides. The vertical seams will curve in only on the top portion of the godet, blending in as they get closer towards the mid length. It is possible to make this step on the pattern and then cut accordingly, but I preferred to do it after hanging out the godet piece.
Align both godet pieces (tweed and charmeuse) along the grainline, then smooth out the lining over the tweed and carefully pin the two layers together from the grainline towards vertical edges.
Carefully turn over the two layers to baste them together. On the image below you can see that the stretched out lining is not trimmed yet. I usually cut any excess fabric after stitching. Next, baste the rounded hem.
Stitch the fashion fabric and the lining and press the two layers from both sides to meld stitches. Fabric is much easier to manipulate if the stitches were set in (flat) on both sides. This is especially true if at least one of the layers is not a lightweight fabric.
Trim all the excess fabric leaving just 3/8" (slightly less than 1cm) seam allowance at the godet hem.
Thanks to Sewing Galaxy for reminding me to add the following information. It is also a good point to grade seam allowance, with the outermost layer having the widest seam allowance and the bottom layer - the narrowest. Start trimming the latter and move on to the outermost layer. I will add a quick how-to these days - there is definitely a need for a set f basic couture techniques tutes, which I can refer to in my posts.
With the both layers still on the ironing board and the lining on the top, carefully turn over the lining so you can reach the seam with the iron tip. Carefully press the lining towards the hem seam allowance. This step will help set the hem curve of the godet, before you start clipping and turning it over.
This is how a portion of the godet hem looks like after it was pressed:
Lay the lining back over the tweed piece. It will look like on the image below:
It's time to clip the hem allowance. This technique is called staggering and it's used on curves. Essentially, you are not clipping both layers at the same time, but separately and at a distance.
Finish the hem by pressing it and understitching to keep the seam allowance in place. Carefully realign the grainlines and vertical edges following the markings on your tweed piece and baste the two layers together.
The godet piece is now ready to be inserted into the skirt.
Thanks for helpful comments on this post to:
- Sewing Galaxy - (you will need Google translate to read her blog, but it's worth it!)
Please let me know if anything is unclear - I will be happy to edit the tutorial. In the next part I will cover how I inserted the godet into the skirt seam, and talk about the godet stay, a great technique I found in Threads archive.