Thursday, September 13, 2012

Setting-in an in-seam godet, step-by-step

In this post I wanted to show how I set in an in-seam godet in my Burdastyle Godet Skirt.  To see the links to the other  godet skirt construction posts, scroll down to the end of the post.

Once set-in, the godet piece will look like on the image below.
in-seam godet finishing
BEFORE STARTING:
  • The godet piece is inserted before the skirt pieces are sewn together. 
  • The godet is hemmed and the layers basted together as shown in the previous post and the image below: 
  • The tip of the godet and seamlines must be marked, as well as the match points on both skirt pieces where godet is inserted.  
STEP 1:
Baste one vertical edge of the godet to the matching skirt piece. Stitch the godet and the skirt layers together starting at the hem. Reduce the stitch length closer to the tip. 



STEP 2:
Repeat the same for the other side.




STEP 3:
Trim the tip of the godet. Using a zipper foot (to avoid the bulk at the godet tip) stitch the skirt pieces together starting at exactly the match point at the tip and using short stitches.



I graded my seam allowances at this point.


STEP 4:
Clip skirt seam allowances at the match point as close to the match point as possible. This will ensure that the seam allowances will not bulge and will lie flat.





STEP 5:
Finish the edges. My personal preference is to catchstitch seam allowances to the underlining. I must say it would have probably be enough to use one row of catch stitches encasing seam allowances of both, the skirt and the godet pieces. As you see below, I got carried away here - always happens to me when I catch stitch.



I wish I had more pictures to show the work in progress - I realized it once I was typing this step-by-step. I will keep it in mind for the upcoming projects.

In the next post I will cover the use of the stay to stabilize the skirt shape. As always, let me know if you spot any inaccuracies, or have more helpful tips - I will be happy to add them to the post.

Related posts:

8 comments:

  1. Love those criss cross stitches. Are they called catch stitch? I haven't a clue but love yours hehe

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  2. Beautifully done godet and an excellent tutorial.
    I started a couple of different methods prevent buying duplicate of fabrics already in my stash, neither of which I have managed to keep up. I started a spread sheet and before that I put pieces of fabric on cards and filed them in a card file. I like your method of storing fabric but I have no walls to go up and too much light from skylights and windows to keep my fabric out in the open like that. I do have a closet though and I like to store my fabric in bins that stack. My shelves are just too wide and deep, unlike yours, to keep the fabric neat, I've tried. I use a labeler to keep track of what's inside and remove them when I've used the fabric. They are organized by type and weight, as you have. It did not keep me from buying almost identical wool double knit to one I have last time I was at Mood. Sigh. I really need a list of what I need before I go shopping, or go back to the spreadsheet idea, but you really have to be pretty anal to keep that up. I've been using up knits that are no longer my taste for muslins. The rest, most of it I like or I can use for my dd.

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  3. Look at all of that beautiful hand stitching...

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  4. Hi Marina,

    I can't say how useful it has been to find your series of posts on making up - and above all lining - this pattern; thank you! I have cut all my pieces (my godet pieces are pinned up and hanging out - as directed!) and am now trying to work out how to proceed.

    I have been trying to work out from your pictures though, how you finished the inside of your skirt, specifically, the lining. Am I right in thinking that the main (wonderful warm gold coloured) lining is being sewn in as a kind of interlining? i.e. sewn as one with the main tweed fabric?

    In which case, what happens to the seam allowances? The pictures above show your beautiful catch-stitching as a means of holding down the seam allowances. Do these remain on the 'outside' of the the lining (i.e. on the side of the lining that meets ones legs)?

    Or would one make up the lining separate skirt, inserting it inside the main skirt. Presumably attaching it first at the godet (and presumably that vertical seam?), then the waistband, tacking it round the zip, and finally hemming it separately from the main skirt fabric (appart from where the godet it, presumably).

    I also need to work out what on earth to use as 'powernet' - so far I'd drawn a blank looking for this; I'm contemplating cutting up a pair of tights and using the reinforced waist section!

    Any thoughts or insights you might have would be most welcome and very much appreciated!

    Many thanks!

    C.

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    Replies
    1. Hi C, I'm in the process of making up this skirt as well. Took me awhile to find just the right wool. I browsed the internet for the 'powernet' as well. I finally found a source for it at http://richardthethread.com look under fabrics. I was lucky however, that there is a fabric shop here in Vegas that carries the powernet, in three colors and three strengths! Good Luck. T

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    2. Hi Theresa, thanks for suggestion on powernet (I'm still grinning at the name Richard the Thread). In my case the wool was an impulse buy, the inner construction of the godet a second thought. All the power net I've seen so far has been lingerie orientated.

      Glad it gets cool enough for wool in Vegas; partner and I were there in early Sept and it was 40 degC (c100 deg F?), so I confess we escaped to Utah's national parks fast! But it seemed like there was quite a burgeoning arts/crafter/maker scene there.

      Thanks for the suggestions!

      C.

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    3. Hi C, it very rarely gets cold in Vegas. But I love working with natural fibers, especially silk and wool. So here's hoping I get a chance to wear everything I've got planned to sew, which includes as mohair/wool top to go along with the skirt and a camel-hair coat! If we have a second ice age I'll be ready. It will probably arrive before I can convince my husband to take me to NY City for Christmas.

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    4. @Teresa. Hee hee - ice-age-readiness, or a trip to NYC both sound like excellent reason for such a lovely sounding combination of wool and silk! Mostly I'm sewing for a soggy London autumn and winter, so the thermal properties of wool will be appreciated...although autumn has mostly been wet rather than frosty so far.

      For any UK sewist reading - to my enormous surprise - I discovered John Lewis (Oxford St) carries power-net; only one type, and flesh coloured (£10/m, but I didn't need much) but power-net nonetheless.

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