Tuesday, July 15, 2014

SSDA 10: Measurements and Calculations Sheet

Before we finally proceed to drafting, I wanted to post a reference list of all the measurements and calculations, which we are going to use to draft our straight skirt


MEASUREMENTS

Waist Circumference __________

Hip Circumference __________

Length to floor
Right Side Length (RSL) __________
Left Side Length (LSL) __________
Back Length (BL) __________
Front Length (FL) __________
Distance from the floor to the desired hem length (LD) __________

Dart Measurements

Front Dart Depth (FD) =                         Front Dart Length (FL) =
Left Side Dart Depth (LD) =                    Left Side Length (LL) =
Back Dart Depth (BD) =                         Back Dart Length (BL) =
Note: please check error as described in the post




CALCULATIONS

Waist Circumference (W)
W= waist measurement + 2cm


Front Waistline
FWL = (Waist circumference : 4) + FI

Back Waistline
BWL = (Waist circumference : 4) + BI



Hip Circumference (H)
H = hip measurement

Length
GLRS  (garment length right side) = RSL - LD (required only for asymmetric figures)
GLLS (garment length left side) = LSL - LD
GLB (garment length back) = BL - LD
GLF (garment length front) = FL - LD

Dart Calculations

DI (Dart Intake) hip circumference - waist circumference)
                                                   2
DD (Dart Depth) = FD + LD + BD

Er (Relative Error) = DI / DD


FI (Front Dart Intake) = FD x Er                     FL (Front Dart Length)= same as measurement
BI (Back Dart Intake) = BD x Er                      BL (Back Dart Length)= same as measurement
LI (Side Dart Intake)  = LD x Er                    LL (Left Side Dart Length)= same as measurement


Front Width
FW = (Hip circumference : 4) - ((BI -FI) : 2)

Back Width
BW = (Hip circumference : 4) + ((BI - FI) : 2)

That's it, readers! To begin drafting you will need the values from the calculation sheet. I'll post the drafting sequence before the weekend. Please ask me if something doesn't make sense, or if you notice a typo. 


Related Posts:

SSDA 9: Side Seam and the Front and Back Widths


9 comments:

  1. It is really helpful to have this to reference ~ thank-you! I have enjoyed the series and appreciate all the time you put into it. (Do you suppose you could add a photo to the post so that it can be 'pinned'?)
    Happy sewing ~ Tracy

    ReplyDelete
  2. hello, I require permission to say something about SSDA 10, considering I'm a fan of your blog and watched all your post about SSDA. I think there should be mentioned and the method of calculation of dart placement in the skirt about you were talking on 15 may 2013. Regarding this I must to say that right after Galya Zlachevskaya the dart is positioned according to the golden section to hip circumference/perimeter. That means that dart placement in the front area correct is = hip circumference/4 x 0,38 from side seam, or hip circumference/4 : 1,61 from center front. I post the graph calculated this way on my google profile to see what about I'm talking.
    We can always discuss about Galya Zlachevskaya method pattern making

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the note. I have to mention that there a few differences between what I wrote and Galya's method, so I don't want you to expect same calculations. As for Golden section, it is not an accurate pointer for dart placement but rather an aesthetic decision. Back and front dart placement is the only calculation that is not directly based on measurements, that's why I would not argue over it. Correct placement should be determined during the fitting, as Galya mentions it in her course as well.

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  4. I made it through here, I am excited to begin the actual drafting ! Will it be posted soon ?

    ReplyDelete

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