Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Sewing with CADRUS: Four designer dresses


I am driven by scents, readers. This morning I woke up very early, around 4 am. As I was getting water for my coffee from near the kitchen window, a drift of a heady scent came from outside... it was a fragile jasmine tree that grows next to the kitchen wall... I love those mornings when it is still dark outside, but the air is so pure and light that you can smell the plants talking. This reminded me of John Galsworthy's The Japanese Quince, a short story that describes an early spring morning scent that took by surprise some rather boring English businessmen. Wonderful little story that makes me smile every time I read it.

Forgive me, readers, for this lyrical deviation. That jasmine got me )... Yesterday, I received the most recent issue of my most favourite Atelier (Ателье) magazine , which is a Russian-language edition of Rundschau magazine published by Mueller & Sohn.  The editions are mostly different with regard to the content. The articles in the Russian edition are written by Russian authors mostly, and it seems they got some great agreements with designers in the west. Almost every issue features a case study on drafting a pattern, or draping, of a piece by prominent designers. These case studies are presented by CADRUS, a Russian information technology company related to Mueller & Sohn, which caters for fashion industry and runs a large education centre.  

Last four issues, for example, offered step-by-step pattern drafting for these garments:

Christian Dior, Resort 2014
Source: Style.com


Prabal Gurung, Fall 2013
Source: Style.com

Oscar de la Renta, Resort 2014
Source: Style.com

Roland Mouret, Pre-Fall 2013
Source: Style.com

Each dress is really unique and it would be fun to try to recreate all of them. If I'll have some time in the near future I will probably consider the Christian Dior or the Prabal Gurung dress, depending on the season. In fact I do need another cocktail dress, and what makes it even easier is that in the most recent issue included a pattern sheet for all four dresses. The patterns are available in two sizes only, so, if I will make them, I will need to measure them very carefully and then off to muslin. I feel lucky

What about you? If you had to choose a dress for a special occasion, which one from these four would it be? and why? 

25 comments:

  1. All dresses have very different style. In my opion, Nr 1 is a real show-stopper (even if one attaches a (partial) underlinining to the lace area to avoid too frivolous look), Nr 2 is... hmmm... postmoderinst dress, Nr 3 is a cute next-door girl and Nr 4 is a mature lady. My favorites are Dior and Oscar de la Renta, probably because I seem to prefer dresses with fitted bodice and loose skirt. But in your case... I feel that this Roland Mouret goes with your style very well, however, actually I hope that this time you choose the Dior dress. It is so fabulous and outstanding with all its gores and contrasting colours. So, if you like it, why not to make it?

    Maris T.

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  2. I like the dresses from Oscar de la Renta and Roland Mouret the best - but I adore anything classic and feminine. Had it been a Dior from say 1953 that would probably had been my choice. :) But this modern one doesn't speak to me at all - even though it can be quite fun to sew.

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  3. O de la renta is most versatile.

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  4. Where do you order it from? I looked it up, really interesting I wish there was something equivalent in English.

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    1. I order it from pressa.de - a subscriber service for Russian magazines. Rundshau used to have (or still has) an English version, but it's less exciting. But even in the Russian version you get patterns every four three issues I think, each time for four pieces, not all of them are designer. And almost every second issue is a draping class. It's worth the money if you understand the language only, I'd say.

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  5. Dior!!!!I It's the most dramatic, interesting and versatile of all. As for the last two, we have already seen them, maybe not exactly like that but they are quite boring.

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    1. Inna, you would shine in this Dior dress - it's your style! What about a challenge?! "The clash of the titans", lol - seriously, you should try :)

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  6. For me, it's the Oscar. I love the classic shape and this design would work better with my figure than the others.

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    Replies
    1. It is a timeless dress, and very feminine, right? I would love to see someone make it

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  7. Hi! I noticed that you get in the same place as Galya Zlachevskaya, regarding SSDA, but with other method what is awesome from my point of view. I think you went ahead even have covered some things that specialized books do not mention at all, things that are essential especially for beginners. In your answer you mentioned about the Galya's course (and I don't doubt that you are right) but I only managed to translate with online dictionary (because I don't know Russian language) some parts of her book. From what I can see from this post you know Russian language and I want to ask you if you are interested in a collaboration on the subject Russian patternmaking method - in particular Lyubak and Galya.

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    1. Yes, I speak Russian fluently. Galya's online course was a little disappointing, unfortunately, as it was basically reproduction of her book chapters plus homework assignments that didn't get much critic. You can do it on your own, without paying that much money. I am not familiar with Lyubak method, for now I am satisfied with the fusion of Galya's teaching and some of the other patternmaking methods. I am sure there is more than one way to achieve good results.

      As for the collaboration, I am not sure what you mean, but you can always send me a mail or a private message on my facebook page and we can discuss it :)

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  8. Christian Dior and Oscar get my votes. Gosh, I would love to know which issue are these patterns in Marina?? I wonder, I have managed to work out my first Marfy pattern, as they don't give instructions.

    I would love to have a try. I love the shaping of both dresses, the Dior one has a lovely line, but I wouldn't dare use the lace!! LOL.

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    1. This is in the August issue, Marysia. The lace can be underlined - in fact, I am pretty sure that a non-runway version is underlined, who can wear it otherwise

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  9. Oscar or Mouret. Oscar is my first choice, it is classic and elegant. How can I get one of those pattern magazines?!

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  10. Becky, I am not sure I still have your email address. Drop me a line and I'll send you the details. The patterns are only in two sizes, They only give the height and circumference and it looks like they would need to be graded up for me at least. I will have a better look at it and will let you know.

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  11. The Oscar de la Renta is my favorite. What a great magazine!

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    1. Yes, with the exception of a few issues. It seems the majority likes Oscar de la Renta :) makes sense as it is the most timeless and feminine style. Maybe I should try it. Let me know if you want to make it...

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  12. All the dresses are gorgeous. I'm in love with the Oscar do la Renta.

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  13. I already pinned the Oscar de la Renta dress!

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  14. have read your blog up to the 'inside the balmain dress' (some posts several times), became very involved in the coat/jacket making class at mastered.com (am addicted to both mastered.com, craftsy.com and check almost everyday for a new class from susankahlje.com) and haven't been to your blog -- crazy me. i've missed some of the best posts ever! love meuller & sons (have several books and want sooo badly to subscribe to the magazine, but where will i keep them?), want to make the very current/slightly vintage/totally elegant/absolutely wearable oscar dress, had a bias skirt made from viscose jersey that behaved just like your dress (did everything - steaming, blocking, dry cleaning - and decided it was just the fabric and binned the skirt), i could go on...i have never posted to you and wanted to let you know how much i enjoy your blog. (i can't imagine all the time it takes to maintain a blog) and appreciate all your tips, photos, questions (as poirot would say, 'uses the grey cells') and advice. you do great work and i will never let months pass again without visiting! p.s. have some 'cultivated' (i know, it's a weed) honeysuckle next to my back door, caught the scent as coming home, arms full from a day of errand running and just had to sit down, close my eyes and breathe. am now thinking of a jasmine for the front door...)

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  15. The collections are beautiful. From longtime am making lists of Women Designer Clothes & Brands. Thanks for adding this. Keep exploring.

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