Thursday, September 11, 2014

Behind the Seams: Silk Blouse


Everytime with a new make I get many ideas about blog posts I can write: tutorials, behind-the-seam images, reviews... And, yet, daily life claims most of my time. The same here, in half an hour hour children will be picked up from the school, they will need lunch and then some company. Sewing time was also cancelled today due to grocery shopping, unpacking and just getting sucked in into the housewife routine.  I am looking at the modest beginnings of my next project and wonder when am I going to complete it... So before I get on this bigger project, I thought I'd post detail shots of my recently made silk blouse as I promised couple of weeks ago.


As you see, there are only two side seams, which I worked as french seams.


The neckline and the back slit are bound with bias strips.


A narrow hem is used to finish the hem and the sleeves. It is stitched using three stitching lines, the way Susan Khalje teaches. But three stitching lines produce a somewhat stiff hem. I usually stitch the first line with larger stitch length setting (same as for machine basting) and remove the thread after the second stitching line is made.



Bias binding on the neckline and the back placket. The placket is very soft and that makes it curve a little and appear a uneven. However, it is mostly quite straight )

Of course, it is only now that I see a pressing issue on this image. I removed that dragging line at the base later on by sliding a small piece of oak tag paper between the bound ends of the slit and the garment fabric and pressed it through an organza press cloth

The placket is made using instructions from Claire Shaeffer's Couture Sewing Techniques with some modifications. Her tutorial is good, but lacks more detail and better step-by-step illustration. So, if there is some demand, I'll be happy to post a tutorial.

Have you worked with slits and plackets? Do you think they are challenging, or do you know an easy method that produces good results? Do share!

28 comments:

  1. Please post a tutorial.. You are an amazing seamstress!

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  2. What a lovely blouse. Very ethereal. And beautifully made. I'd love to know more about your slit treatment. Lately I have been using Susan Khalje's method for the slit but I'm always interested in trying new methods.

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  3. That is so beautiful - in the wearing and the craftsmanship. I would really appreciate a tutorial if you get the time. I love the bias finish and the little placket but don't get good results.

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  4. Waving hand wildly in the air - PLEASE a tutorial!! The last time I tried a placket it looked a like a drunk monkey had helped and I've been wary ever since. And your bias binding is beautiful! Mine isn't bad, but doesn't look quite as nice as yours so any tips in that direction would be welcome also. I love Cissie's description of your blouse as ethereal.

    LOL, I feel like my son right now - he is learning to drive, and has only had his permit for a month. In his words - "Mom, assume nothing, and never hesitate to tell me the smallest things!" He is doing very well by the way :) So, I will say the same to you - assume nothing! Even something as simple as your post awhile back about installing elastic in a casing was not common knowledge for all of us.

    Ah, yes - I COMPLETELY understand about how daily life seems to swallow up the day. I had this silly idea long ago that when my kids were older I would have so much more free time. Somehow, that has not transpired so far - and they are 17 and 15! Things are just different now. :)

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  5. Beautiful blouse! Please post a tutorial, I'd love to see how it's done.

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  6. BEAUTIFUL! That hem is simply gorgeous!

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  7. Ditto! A tutorial on the placket would be much appreciated.

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  8. i just love the placket on the back! never occurred to me to make a placket that way. gorgeous blouse!

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  9. Hallo Marina,
    ich bin grade am kämpfen mit einem crep-chiffon und wäre über jede hilfe bzw hinweis dankbar.
    es geht um saum. wenn ich an mir mit kreide vom rocksaumhilfe grade linie anzeichne und dann versuche an der linie umbruch zu bekommen, dann gelingt es mir nciht in einer graden,weil mein crepchiffon permanent in die breite geht und die linie ist nicht mehr grade,sondern gewellt. dazu kommt noch,dass meine bluse drüber getragen werden muss.aber wenn ich mich leicht bewege, dann ist der saum schon wieder nciht mehr grade. kennst du irgendwelche tricks?
    P.S. stärken kann ich nciht,da es seide ist und alles feuchtes und nasses die spuren hinterlässt.

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  10. A tutorial would be most welcome... I ruined the last one I made !

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  11. That's a beautiful blouse! Clean simple lines and very elegant! And yes, tutorial when you can, please! I'd love to know how the placket and slits were done.

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  12. This is a gorgeous blouse!! I'm another vote for a placket tutorial. Thanks for asking.

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  13. You've just created a very lovely blouse, and I'm adding a yes to a detailed tutorial for the placket.

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  14. I think the public has voted, do a tutorial :)

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  15. This is beautiful! Wow. And yes count me in for the camp that would absolutely LOVE a tutorial. :)

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  16. I ADORE that bus, and your photograph of it!

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  17. i love that you quantify that impeccable, picture perfect placket with pressing issues...i would throw myself a parade if i made a silk placket like that.

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    1. You and me both Oona... I'd be thrilled to produce a placket that beautiful!

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  18. Please do post a tutorial. I've been using Susan Khalje's method but I'm keen to look applying the binding in more detail. I love your top, it is beautifully made.

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