When I featured this pattern find on my blog about a year ago, it seems to have kindled your interest.
This is a 1959 pattern by Vogue Patterns. The envelope describes the style as ...
... a flared skirt in two length, which has deep front and back box pleats. Front pleats cross over at waist line. Wide shaped and narrow straight waistband. Four gored petticoat also in two lengths...
Cotton satin - Gingham - Pique - Cotton Broadcloth - Barathea - Satin - Faille - Shantung - Wool Crepe - Lightweight Woolen
At that time I also stumbled upon a very similar skirt by Vivienne Westwood in Liberty floral print at whopping $500 (http://www.net-a-porter.com/am/product/337385#). I find Vivienne Westwood’s patternmaking is very inspiring, but the price can hardly be justified if you can sew.
Finding a very similar vintage pattern was really a lucky strike. Unfortunately, the pattern sizing is on a teenager side, and grading a pattern like this is more time consuming than drafting one from scratch, while having instruction sheet and the pattern pieces at hand gives wonderful guidance. I thought, I will just re-draft the pattern with slight modifications and post step-by-step instructions so you can follow along if you are interested.
At first sight, the skirt looks like a simple 3/8 circle skirt with angled crossover pleats. Theoretically you can integrate pleats as circle segments (not as straight rectangle inserts) from the beginning of the drafting process. However, this pattern has five front and three back pattern pieces.
The two angled pleats at the front are made using a separate pattern piece each (7). These pleat pieces are then inserted between the center front pattern (8) and the side front (6) pieces.
The back also has two 'normal' box pleats, which are not angled and almost meet at the center back.
The Vivienne Westwood skirt, with its asymmetric pleat placement, is more improvisational, but the cutting principle is very similar. I think once you understand pleat drafting and grainline placement you can improvise endlessly.
So, here is the plan:
PART 1: PETTICOAT, OR LINING
Tue, 21 Oct
I will start with drafting a basic ⅜ circle skirt, which can then be also used as a pattern for the petticoat or lining. It makes sense to start with the easiest piece first, and I will use this opportunity to go over some basic steps for those of you who don’t have experience drafting circle skirts.
PART 2: THE BACK AND THE STRAIGHT PLEATS
Fri, 24 October
Next, I’ll draft the back with two not-angled pleats, and I’ll also look into seam and grainline placement in the pattern. This part offers a good overview of how the pleats are drafted in a circle skirt.
PART 3: THE FRONT AND ANGLED PLEATS
Tue, 28 October
Finally, the front with the angled pleats will be drafted, completing the draft along.
At the moment, I haven’t yet planned a sew-along for this skirt. Maybe after drafting is completed. For now, it would be great if you'd join me and draft your own skirts. It's just much more fun to do it as a group. If you are joining please leave a comment. Additionally, I have also set up another draft-along thread on the Couture Collective forum, so we can interact and post pictures.