Monday, November 17, 2014

Crossover Pleat Skirt Draft-Along 6: Drafting the Front

The final drafting post is done, readers. It took me a while to find explanation to certain construction decisions, but now it's all over. The only post that I plan to upload for this draft-along is final pattern layout, including tracing individual pieces and placement of grainlines. But back to front pleats. 

The front pleats are quite different from the back pleats as they are drafted at an angle, crossing over and overlapping at center front. Additional width is given to the front pleats to allow for overlapping. 

Let's look at the pleat width first. The distance from the center front to the outside foldline of the pleat toward the side seam is the same as in the back (or 1/3 of the back (or front) waist measurement). About a half of that width to allow for the crossover at the center front on the waistline. On my skirt, the total width is 17 cm, with 5 cm used for the crossover. 

Here is the final draft of the skirt. As before, I am drawing on the master pattern which we drafted in Part One.

We start marking the front pleat width on the skirt.

On the waistline, measure 12cm  (pleat width without crossover allowance; use your calculation) to the left from the center front. Mark as point P.

Draw a line from A through P to the hemline, marking point Q. Mark the line PQ as outside foldline.

Repeat the same with the right fold for the line RS, measuring 12cm  to the right of the center front this time. Mark as outside foldline.

As next, we will draft the overlapping outside foldlines of these two pleats.

On the waistline, measure 5cm (or about 1/2 of the back pleat; use your calculation) to the right from the center front. Mark as point T.

On the hemline, measure about half of the front pleat to the left of the center front mark (J). Mark as point U. Connect point T with point U, mark as outside foldline.

Note: The angle for this foldline is chosen following design lines, not the construction necessity. I see it as the weakest point in the whole garment, as it will be most prone to distortion and dragging. However, it is possible to address this issue by choosing more stable fabric, increasing pleat depth, and introducing a seam in the inside foldline.

Repeat the same for the right outside foldline VW. Mark as outside foldline.

Inside foldlines are drafted as parallel lines to the outside foldlines. First draft inside foldlines parallel to the lines PQ and RS, measuring half of the front pleat from each line towards the center front. Mark as inside foldline / seam

For the other two inside foldlines / seams, inside the pleat measure from the point T the width of the front pleat minus 2cm, and, from that point draft a line parallel to TU.  
Repeat the same for the other inside foldline / seam, drawing a parallel line to VW.

In the final post this week I will explain how to trace pattern pieces from this master pattern, as well as look into the placement of grainlines. 



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