Friday, February 6, 2015

COUTUREGRAM: 1973 Dior Couture Evening Dress

After a two-month radio silence, getting hands eyes on a couture gown is almost all I needed to get my blogging mojo back. Add a new blog friend and a mischievous boy kitty to the mix, and I am back on track. 

As usual for the COUTUREGRAM series, I will keep my comments to a minimum, but please keep yours flowing. Here is what we are looking at and learning from today:

"Bubblegum pink silk & linen fitted sheath, empire w/ halter strap & self fabric bow across bust, built-in corset, silk lining, label "Printemps-Ete 1973 Christian Dior Paris" (Source: liveauctioners.com)

This seemingly simple dress (and, unfortunately, the dress form doesn't do it justice) has some really sophisticated construction underneath. Just one image reveals quite a few secrets, which I hope to use myself.


As you can see this dress has a built-in silk corselet, which is interfaced and quilted in the bust area, down to the empire waist line to reenforce the fragile silk.

There is an elastic underbust stay, and here is an older post talking about underbust stays. You can see thread loops on side seams that hold the stay.

Bust cups are lined with silk

Seam allowances are notched and machine-overcast with a narrow zigzag stitch

Boning is inserted in all seams and extends down to the waistline. I assume the corselet is connected to the skirt lining.

Ivory-coloured waist stay is visible in the top portion of the image


That's it. Hope you enjoyed peeking at the inside of this dress as well. I'd love to hear from you if you notice something else, or have a question.

37 comments:

  1. It looks like there is a waist stay as well. Is there?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for posting the pictures! It's such a beauty! I noticed that they did not use the catch stitch to attach seam allowances to the lining.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ... and beautiful hot pink color ) Generally I haven't seen much catch stitching where the seam allowances are not covered with lining. I guess giving seam allowances a scalloped form helps lie them flat.

      Delete
  3. Thanks for posting this fabulous dress and especially the inside. Are the vertical seams sewn after the horizontal seams? That is different than I would expect. Am I correct that although these stays are elastic, the stays on the referenced post are not elastic? How is the zipper inserted and finished? Fascinating to see!

    ReplyDelete
  4. What a gorgeous dress. Is the quilting of the corslete to limit movement of the fabric... keep it stable? It also looks like the quilted part is backed by the fashion fabric. It's good to see insides of these designer gowns as it does look hand made and not commercially finished... that's the couture. I'm interested also in the label as it is Printemps which is a department store in Paris... or does it have another meaning?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am quite certain that "Printemps-Eté" refers to the fashion season (it means Spring-Summer), we still use this wording on clothes catalogues today :) (I'm French)

      Delete
  5. Whoa, elasticized underbust stay! That's so clever! There's so much going on in this seemingly-simple dress!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thank-you so much for sharing the making of these clothing patterns. I absolutely love it.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Mở bán the golden palm hà đông
    Mở bán chung cư golden palm hà đông
    Mở bán chung cư the golden palm lê văn lương hà đông
    Mở bán rivera park 69 vu trong phung hà đông
    Mở bán chung cu five star resident hà đông
    Mở bán hong ha tower hà đông
    Mở bán flc ha dong hà đông
    Mở bán an bình city geleximco hà đông
    Mở bán an bình city hà đông
    Mở bán an binh city hà đông
    Dự án chung cu an binh city
    Mở bán t&t riverside 440 vĩnh hưng hà đông
    Chủ đầu tư chung cu an binh city phạm văn đồng
    Mở bán chung cư t& 440 vĩnh hưng hà đông
    Bán biệt thự the green manor hà đông
    Mở bán an bình city hà đông
    Mở bán du an 82 nguyen tuan hà đông
    Mở bán tổng quan 82 nguyen tuan hà đông
    Mở bán vị trí chung cư 82 nguyen tuan hà đông
    Mở bán tin tức chung cư 82 nguyen tuan hà đông
    Mở bán chung cư gemek hà đông
    Mở bán mặt bằng tổng thể chung cư gemek hà đông
    Mở bán mặt bằng chi tiết chung cư gemek hà đông
    Mở bán tiến độ chung cư gemek hà đông
    Mở bán tiện ích chung cư gemek hà đông

    Mở bán an binh city hà đông

    ReplyDelete
  8. Giới thiệu chung cư an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tổng quan an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu vị trí chung cư an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tiện ích an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu mặt bằng an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tiến độ an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tin tức an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu phong thủy cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu vị trí an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu mặt bằng an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tiến độ an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tin tức an bình city cổ nhuế
    Giới thiệu tiện ích an bình city cổ nhuế

    ReplyDelete

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...